AMA DABLAM & KYAJO RI COMBO EXPEDITION

A comprehensive briefing covers both peaks — Kyajo Ri and Ama Dablam — including the full route, camp structures, technical approach, safety protocols, permit logistics, and the role of the government liaison officer required for the Ama Dablam phase. Equipment is checked and confirmed. You receive your Alpinist Climber Expeditions duffel bag, cap, and T-shirt. The afternoon is free for final preparations or exploring the city.

An early mountain flight from Kathmandu to Lukla (2,840m) takes approximately 35 minutes with sweeping Himalayan views on the approach. In Lukla, the team assembles and loads are organized before the trek begins. The trail descends through pine forest along the Dudh Koshi River to Phakding — a comfortable first trekking day before the valley steepens toward Namche.

The trail crosses the Sagarmatha National Park checkpoint at Monjo and climbs steeply to Namche Bazaar — the commercial and cultural hub of the Sherpa world. The ascent gains approximately 600 metres from the river crossing below, and Kyajo Ri's summit is visible on the ridge northwest of Namche on arrival. Namche's bakeries, gear shops, and Sherpa-owned restaurants make it the most comfortable stop on the approach.

A structured acclimatization day in Namche. A morning hike to the Everest View Hotel ridge at approximately 3,800m builds altitude exposure before returning to sleep at the lower elevation. The views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam, and Kyajo Ri from this ridge on a clear morning are one of the finest mountain panoramas accessible on foot anywhere in the world — and a preview of both summits ahead.

The trail branches northwest from Namche toward Thame — a quieter route that runs above the Bhote Koshi River through traditional Sherpa villages with little trekking traffic by Khumbu standards. Above Thame, the path climbs steeply to Kyajo Ri Base Camp at 4,550m. The summit ridge of Kyajo Ri is clearly visible above — steeper and more serious than the approach suggests from below. Base Camp is established and the team settles in for the first camp night of the expedition.

A rest and preparation day at Base Camp. The team settles into the altitude, organizes climbing equipment, and reviews the route above with the lead guide. The terrain from Camp 1 through Camp 2 and the technical upper ridge is discussed in detail. The body acclimatizes at Base Camp before the first serious moves upward begin the following morning.

From Base Camp, the route climbs through mixed terrain — rocky ground giving way to snow and the first technical sections of the lower ridge. Camp 1 at 5,200m sits on a solid ledge with the upper mountain now in full view. The terrain between here and Camp 2 is clearly defined from this vantage — steep, exposed in places, and noticeably more demanding than the ground below. Tents are established, a hot meal prepared, and the team rests with Camp 2 the next objective.

Above Camp 1 the character of the mountain asserts itself. The route gains the main ridge through steep snow and mixed sections — fixed lines on the more technical pitches, and careful movement required on the exposed ground above. Camp 2 at 5,700m sits in a sheltered position on the upper ridge with the Kyajo Ri summit visible some 486 metres above. The team rests carefully, eating well and managing hydration in preparation for the summit attempt.

A reserve day at Camp 2, built into every Kyajo Ri expedition. Weather on the upper ridge is unpredictable, and this buffer ensures the team can wait for a safe summit window without pressure. All decisions are made by the expedition leader based on current weather data and route conditions. If conditions allow on Day 10, the leader may summit and use Day 11 for descent.

The summit push begins in the early hours from Camp 2. The upper ridge involves the most demanding terrain of the Kyajo Ri climb — sustained steep ground, mixed sections, and a final exposed push to the summit at 6,186m. The view from the top is exceptional: Cho Oyu, Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and the full Khumbu arc extend across the horizon, and to the southeast, Ama Dablam's unmistakable profile rises above the valley — the next summit on the programme.

After time at the top, the team descends carefully through the technical terrain back to Base Camp with a 1:1 Climbing Sherpa alongside each member throughout.

From Kyajo Ri Base Camp, the trail descends back through Thame to Namche Bazaar. The altitude drop is substantial and the body responds immediately — appetite, energy, and sleep quality all improve on the descent. Namche provides a genuine rest stop between the two phases of the expedition.

A full rest day in Namche between Kyajo Ri and Ama Dablam. The team recovers from the first summit, eats well, and prepares for the Khumbu approach to Ama Dablam Base Camp beginning the following morning. The guide reviews weather forecasts and confirms the Ama Dablam phase plan.

The trail leaves Namche and heads south and east toward Tengboche — following the main Everest approach route through rhododendron forest. Ama Dablam appears progressively larger with every kilometre gained. The monastery at Tengboche offers a brief stop and a view of Ama Dablam rising directly above that has no equal anywhere on the trek.

From Tengboche, the trail passes through Pangboche and then branches south toward the Ama Dablam glacier. The approach to Base Camp at 4,600m is a direct climb from Pangboche through moraine and high pasture terrain, with the mountain's southwest ridge growing more imposing with every hundred metres gained. Base Camp is a well-established position below the route — tent city by Khumbu standards, given Ama Dablam's popularity with serious mountaineers in both seasons.

The Puja ceremony is conducted at Ama Dablam Base Camp — a traditional Sherpa blessing ritual led by a lama and attended by every member of the team. All climbing equipment is blessed before use on the mountain. This ceremony is a genuine and meaningful part of every expedition we organize, and Ama Dablam Base Camp — with its community of expedition teams and the mountain rising directly above — is one of the most atmospheric places to experience it in the Khumbu.

A controlled acclimatization move from Base Camp to approximately 5,200m before returning. After Kyajo Ri's 6,186m summit, the body is better adapted to altitude than a fresh team arriving at Ama Dablam Base Camp — and this rotation confirms that adaptation and familiarizes the team with the lower section of the Ama Dablam route. The terrain above Base Camp is immediately more technical than Kyajo Ri's lower approaches.

The route from Base Camp to Camp 1 at 5,800m climbs a mix of rock, ice, and fixed rope sections on the lower southwest ridge. This is proper technical terrain from the first moves above Base Camp — very different in character from the glacier approaches of many other peaks. Camp 1 is a small, exposed ledge with stunning views back down the valley toward Tengboche and Pangboche far below. The upper ridge — Camps 2 and 3 — is now clearly visible above.

Above Camp 1, the southwest ridge becomes more sustained and demanding. Fixed ropes protect the steeper rock and mixed sections, and movement above 6,000m on technical terrain requires the focused, deliberate climbing style that the Kyajo Ri experience has developed. Camp 2 at 6,100m is another exposed but sheltered ledge camp, positioned below the dablam — the enormous overhanging serac feature that defines Ama Dablam's profile from the valley below. The upper mountain is now within reach.

The route to Camp 3 passes directly below the dablam — close enough to appreciate its full scale and the exposure of the terrain it overhangs. This section is one of the most committed on the entire route: the technical ground above Camp 2 demands sound climbing on mixed terrain, and the exposure on the upper ridge is significant. Camp 3 at 6,400m is the final camp before the summit push — a high and exposed position with the summit ridge visible directly above. The team rests carefully and early, knowing the summit day begins before dawn.

A reserve day at Camp 3, essential on any Ama Dablam expedition. Weather on the upper ridge at 6,400m is highly variable, and the summit approach above Camp 3 is not terrain that can be safely pushed in marginal conditions. This buffer ensures the team waits for a proper summit window without compressing the descent or the return timeline. All decisions rest with the expedition leader based on current weather data, route conditions, and team readiness.

The summit day begins well before dawn. From Camp 3, the route follows the upper southwest ridge — narrow, exposed, and technically demanding to the very end. The final meters to the summit at 6,812m are among the most committing of any peak below 7,000 metres in Nepal. A 1:1 Climbing Sherpa accompanies every member throughout. The summit delivers one of the finest views in the Khumbu: the valley spreads below in both directions, Everest and Lhotse rise directly to the north, and Makalu, Cho Oyu, and Kanchenjunga extend across the eastern horizon. Two summits in 22 days.

The descent from the summit to Base Camp is long and technical — requiring the same focused movement as the ascent, repeated in reverse. The guide team manages the return carefully. Arriving at Base Camp with Ama Dablam summited marks one of the most significant achievements available to climbers pursuing technical peaks below the 8,000-metre range.

An early departure from Base Camp through Pangboche and Namche and then down to Lukla. The descent from 4,600m to 2,860m takes most of the day but the trail is familiar and the altitude drop is deeply welcome. The flight from Lukla returns the team to Kathmandu in time for the farewell dinner — a celebration of 24 days, two technical summits, and a level of commitment that very few climbing expeditions in Nepal can match.

A farewell dinner the previous evening marks the close of the expedition. Private airport transfer is arranged for your outbound flight on Day 24. The Ama Dablam and Kyajo Ri Combo Expedition concludes.