KYAJO RI & CHOLATSE COMBO EXPEDITION
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KYAJO RI & CHOLATSE COMBO EXPEDITION

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Duration
25 Days
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Max Altitude
6,186m · 6,440m
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Group Size
Max 1 - 6

Trip Description

Kyajo Ri — 6,186m

Kyajo Ri sits above Thame village at 6,186 metres on the northwest rim of the Khumbu — a technical peak that sees far fewer ascents than its elevation and quality would suggest. The route rises through Base Camp at 4,550m, Camp 1 at 5,200m, and Camp 2 at 5,700m before the technical upper ridge leads to the summit. Above Camp 2, the terrain is serious: steep mixed ground, exposed ridge sections, and a demanding final approach that separates Kyajo Ri firmly from the trekking peaks category.

 

In this expedition, Kyajo Ri functions as the structured preparation stage. The mixed terrain on the upper ridge, the sustained effort above 5,500m, and the specific skills developed under IFMGA guide instruction during the summit push provide the direct technical foundation that Cholatse will demand at a higher level. Kyajo Ri is not a warm-up — it is a genuinely difficult 6,000m peak that happens to also be the best possible preparation for what comes next.

 

Cholatse — 6,440m

Cholatse stands at 6,440 metres above the Cho La pass on the western boundary of the Khumbu, at the head of the Gokyo Valley. It was first summited in 1982 and remains one of the more serious technical peaks available to climbers at this altitude in Nepal. The route ascends from Base Camp at 4,700m through Camp 1 at 5,600m and Camp 2 at 5,840m, before the upper mountain presents the most demanding ground of the expedition — steep ice and mixed terrain on the final approach to the summit ridge.

 

The mountain sees relatively few expeditions each season, which contributes to its character: the route is not a heavily trafficked fixed-line highway, and the conditions on the upper mountain require genuine reading and management by the guide team. The summit at 6,440m looks directly across the Ngozumba Glacier toward Cho Oyu, with Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu visible to the east and the Gokyo lakes glittering far below. It is a position that rewards the technical commitment required to reach it.

Trip Overview

Duration
Duration
25 Days
Including travel days
Max altitude
Max Altitude
6,186m · 6,440m
Summit of KYAJO RI & CHOLATSE COMBO EXPEDITION
Difficulty
Best Season
Spring & Autumn
Ideal climbing window
Group size
Group Size
Max 1 - 6
Small team support
Region
Region
Khumbu Region
Expedition location
Overview
Overview
Expedition
High-altitude guided climb
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Trip overview background

Detailed Itinerary

A representative from Alpinist Climber Expeditions meets you at Tribhuvan International Airport and transfers you to your 4-star hotel. The evening begins with a welcome dinner — the first chance to meet your guide and fellow team members before the Khumbu journey begins.

Hotel

A comprehensive briefing covers both peaks — the full route, camp structures, technical approach, safety protocols, and permit logistics. Equipment is checked and confirmed. You receive your Alpinist Climber Expeditions duffel bag, cap, and T-shirt. The afternoon is free for any final preparation before the flight to Lukla the following morning.

Hotel

An early mountain flight from Kathmandu to Lukla (2,840m) with sweeping Himalayan views on the approach. The team assembles in Lukla and loads are organized before the first trekking day begins. The trail descends along the Dudh Koshi River through pine forest to Phakding — a steady, manageable introduction to the Khumbu trail.

Lodge

The trail crosses the Sagarmatha National Park checkpoint at Monjo and climbs steeply to Namche Bazaar — the commercial hub and cultural centre of the Sherpa world at 3,440m. The steep ascent from the river crossing below gains approximately 600 metres and marks the most physically demanding trekking day of the approach. Kyajo Ri's summit is visible on the northwest ridge above Namche from the village itself.

Lodge

A structured acclimatization day. A morning hike to the Everest View Hotel ridge at approximately 3,800m builds altitude exposure above Namche before returning to sleep lower. The route above Namche passes through Khumjung village and delivers views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam, and — directly — Kyajo Ri above the Thame Valley to the northwest. A first clear look at the first summit ahead.

Lodge

The trail branches northwest from Namche through Khunde — a traditional Sherpa village below the Khunde Hospital, the oldest hospital in the Khumbu. From Khunde, the path climbs steeply toward Thame and then continues above the village to Kyajo Ri Base Camp at 4,550m. The summit ridge of Kyajo Ri dominates the view above — steeper and more serious in appearance than the trail below would suggest.

Camp

A rest and preparation day at Kyajo Ri Base Camp. Equipment is organized, the route is reviewed in detail with the lead guide, and the team acclimatizes before the serious climbing begins the following morning. The terrain from Camp 1 through Camp 2 and the upper ridge is visible from Base Camp and discussed in full.

Camp

The route from Base Camp climbs through mixed terrain — rock, snow, and the first technical sections of the lower ridge — to Camp 1 at 5,200m. The upper mountain is now fully visible above: the steeper ground between Camp 1 and Camp 2, and the exposed final ridge to the summit are clearly apparent from this vantage. Tents are established, a hot meal prepared, and the team rests in preparation for the more demanding move to Camp 2.

Camp

Above Camp 1 the terrain intensifies. Fixed lines protect the steeper sections as the route gains the main ridge through steep snow and mixed ground. Camp 2 at 5,700m sits in a sheltered position on the upper ridge with the Kyajo Ri summit clearly visible above. The Cholatse massif is now visible to the southeast — a first look at the second objective. The team rests carefully in preparation for the summit push.

Camp

A reserve day at Camp 2. Weather on the Kyajo Ri upper ridge is unpredictable and the summit cannot safely be attempted in poor conditions. This buffer day protects the summit window without compressing the timeline. All decisions are made by the expedition leader based on current weather and route data. If conditions allow on Day 10, the leader may summit and use Day 11 as descent.

Camp

The summit push from Camp 2 begins in the early hours. The upper ridge of Kyajo Ri is the most technically demanding ground on this peak — sustained steep terrain, mixed sections, and the final exposed approach to the summit at 6,186m. The view from the top encompasses Cho Oyu, Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Ama Dablam on one side, and the Cholatse massif clearly defined to the southeast — the next objective, now visible from the top of the first. The team descends to Base Camp with a 1:1 Climbing Sherpa alongside each member throughout.

Camp

From Kyajo Ri Base Camp the team descends back through the Thame trail to Khunde. The altitude drop is significant and the lower valley's warmth is immediately welcome after the time above 5,000m. Khunde provides a proper lodge rest between the two phases of the expedition

Lodge

The trail moves east and south from Khunde, joining the Gokyo Valley approach through the Khumbu's less-trafficked western corridor. The route passes through Mong La and descends to the Dudh Koshi before climbing to Dole — a small settlement in the lower Gokyo Valley with fine views of Cho Oyu appearing to the north for the first time. The Gokyo route is quieter than the main Everest trail and the change in atmosphere is noticeable.

Lodge

The Gokyo Valley route continues north to Machhermo — a well-established lodge stop on the approach to the Gokyo lakes and Cholatse. The valley narrows and steepens above Dole, and the peaks ahead begin to grow in scale. Machhermo sits at a meaningful altitude and the overnight here serves as useful preparation before the further climb to Cholatse Base Camp the following day.

Lodge

From Machhermo, the trail branches toward the Cho La and the approach to Cholatse Base Camp at 4,700m. The mountain reveals itself progressively on the approach — its southwest face, the route of ascent, and the sharp summit ridge becoming clearer with every hundred metres of altitude gained. Base Camp is established on solid ground below the lower glacier, with the route above beginning to take shape. The second phase of the expedition formally begins.

Camp

The Puja ceremony is conducted at Cholatse Base Camp — a traditional Sherpa blessing ritual attended by every member of the team. All climbing equipment is blessed before use on the mountain. This ceremony carries the same genuine significance as at any other Base Camp, and on a less-visited peak like Cholatse it has a particularly intimate quality. The day's remainder is for rest, equipment organization, and settling into the altitude ahead of the climbing phase.

Camp

The route above Base Camp enters serious terrain quickly. Cholatse's lower glacier approach involves crevassed glacier travel and increasingly steep snow before Camp 1 at 5,600m is reached. This is a significant altitude gain from Base Camp in a single day, and the physical demand of the day reflects the character of the mountain above. Camp 1 is a well-positioned camp with full exposure to the upper route and the conditions that will determine the summit window.

Camp

Above Camp 1 the terrain becomes more committed. Steep ice and mixed ground characterize the approach to Camp 2 at 5,840m — the final camp before the summit push. Fixed lines protect the most demanding sections, but the climbing requires the technical competence and altitude conditioning that the Kyajo Ri phase has developed. Camp 2 is an exposed but sheltered position with the upper summit ridge now directly above. The team rests carefully, eating well and managing hydration in preparation for an early summit departure.

Camp

A reserve day at Camp 2. Cholatse's upper ridge at nearly 6,000m is exposed to weather systems that move quickly through the Gokyo Valley. This buffer day ensures the team can wait for a proper summit window without compressing the descent or the return timeline. All decisions are made by the expedition leader based on current weather data and conditions on the upper route. If conditions allow, the leader may summit on Day 19 and use Day 20 as the descent day.

Camp

Summit day begins before dawn from Camp 2. The upper mountain presents the most technical and committing terrain of the full 25-day expedition — steep ice, mixed sections, and the final push along the exposed summit ridge to 6,440m. A 1:1 Climbing Sherpa accompanies each member throughout. The summit of Cholatse delivers an extraordinary panorama: Cho Oyu fills the northwest horizon, the Ngozumba Glacier stretches below toward the Gokyo lakes, and Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu rise to the northeast and east. Two technical summits completed in 25 days.

After time at the top, the team descends methodically to Camp 1. The technical ground above Camp 2 demands the same careful attention on descent as on ascent — the guide team manages the return with the same focus as the climb.

Camp

A full descent from Camp 1 to Cholatse Base Camp. The camp is broken down over the afternoon and the team prepares for the return trek beginning the following morning. The valley below Base Camp is now a very welcome sight after nearly two weeks above 5,000m on two technical mountains.

Camp

The return trek retraces the Gokyo Valley approach in reverse — south through Machhermo and Dole, crossing back into the main Khumbu corridor and arriving in Namche Bazaar by the afternoon. The altitude drop from 4,700m to 3,440m is felt immediately and gratefully.

Lodge

The final trekking day follows the Dudh Koshi River downstream from Namche through Phakding and the familiar lower Khumbu forest to Lukla. The trail is well-known by this point and the pace is easy. Porters are thanked and farewelled in Lukla before the final night on the expedition.

Lodge

An early morning flight from Lukla returns the team to Kathmandu. The afternoon is free for rest, a final exploration of Thamel, or souvenir shopping before the farewell dinner in the evening — a proper celebration of 25 days, two 6,000m technical summits, and the commitment it took to reach both of them.

Hotel

Private airport transfer is arranged for your outbound flight. The Kyajo Ri and Cholatse Combo Expedition concludes — 25 days from Kathmandu to two serious alpine summits and back.

Why ACE?

Alpinist Climber Expeditions was built around a principle that has guided every climb we have organized — that the quality of the experience on a mountain is directly tied to the quality and depth of experience of the people leading it. What sets Alpinist Climber Expeditions apart is something that cannot be manufactured or replicated — it comes from decades spent on these mountains, from the culture that formed us, and from a deeply held belief that every climb deserves to be done properly.

 

We are a team of professional Sherpas. Not guides who have visited the Himalaya — guides who grew up here, who know these peaks in every season, and who have spent careers developing the technical skills and mountain judgment required to lead expeditions safely and successfully.

 

Our team holds IFMGA / UIAGM certification — the highest international standard in professional mountain guiding — alongside Advanced Mountaineering, Wilderness First Aid, Helicopter Rescue, and High-Altitude Rescue qualifications. Our lead guide has summited multiple 8,000-metre peaks, including ascents without supplemental oxygen. This is not a credential on paper. It is a lived capability that directly protects every climber who climbs with us.

 

We offer two expedition structures: a standard option with small-group expedition, and a premium option with 1:1 guide-to-client ratio. Both are built on the same standard of safety, preparation, and professionalism.The standard option maintains a minimum 1:3 guide-to-client ratio with a dedicated IFMGA lead guide and Sherpa support on every climb. Our premium 1:1 private option places you on the mountain directly alongside IFMGA Guide Mr. Prakash Sherpa.

 

We do not run high-volume operations as our clients are not bookings. They are climbers who have chosen to trust us with something significant and we take that trust seriously on every single expedition. We do not cut corners on acclimatization, staffing ratios, or safety equipment. We organize expeditions the way they should be organized — with patience, precision, and the kind of local knowledge that only comes from growing up in these mountains and spending a career on them.

 



The Team

Expedition Guides

Every guide on our team has been selected for their technical ability, high-altitude experience, and personal commitment to the safety and success of every climber they lead. All guides carry extensive experience at altitude and hold a proven record of safety, summit success, and strong compatibility with international clients.

The number of guides assigned to each expedition is determined by the size of the climbing team. Our standard guide-to-member ratio is 1:3, ensuring that every climber receives consistent, attentive support throughout the approach, the acclimatization phase, and the technical climb itself.

 

Climbing Sherpa Support

A dedicated team of experienced Climbing Sherpas supports every expedition with load carrying on the mountain, route preparation, and high camp management. On summit day, we maintain a 1:1 Sherpa-to-climber ratio — a commitment that reflects our belief that the summit push is where support matters most.

Our Climbing Sherpas are not simply load carriers. They are experienced high-altitude professionals who understand the mountain, the route, and the demands of summit day. Their presence alongside every climber on the final push is a core part of how we manage safety and success on the upper mountain.

 

What to Expect from Our Team

  • Technically qualified, IFMGA-certified lead guidance on every expedition
  • A standard guide-to-member ratio of 1:3 — adjusted based on team size and peak requirements
  • 1:1 Climbing Sherpa support on summit day for every team member
  • Guides who are experienced, companionable, and genuinely invested in your success
  • Full medical kit, satellite communication, and emergency response capability carried by the team at all times
  • A premium 1:1 private option available — summit alongside Mr. Prakash Sherpa directly

 

 

Trip Notes

  • The best seasons are spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November). Both offer reliable weather windows and good conditions on both peaks. Winter is operationally possible on this combination — Kyajo Ri and Cholatse are among the few Khumbu 6,000m expeditions with a viable winter season for well-prepared teams. Monsoon season (June to September) is not suitable.

  • The expedition runs for 25 days from arrival in Kathmandu to final departure — covering the Kyajo Ri phase, the Gokyo Valley transition to Cholatse, the climbing period, and the return to Kathmandu.

  • Accommodation during trekking is in lodges on full board. At both base camps, each member has a single private tent with a shared dining tent and toilet tent. Above base camp, accommodation is in shared high camp tents at each elevation on both peaks.

  • Group size is a minimum of 1 member with 1 IFMGA Mountain Guide, and a maximum of 6 members with 2 IFMGA Mountain Guides. The number of guides is always determined by the size of the team.

  • Both peaks require prior technical climbing experience on semi-technical alpine terrain. Candidates should be confident with crampon use on steep snow and ice, comfortable on fixed ropes, and experienced with the physical demands of multiple consecutive days above 5,000m. This is not a suitable expedition for climbers with no prior technical high-altitude background.

  • A free duffel bag, baseball cap, and T-shirt are provided to every member at the expedition team meeting in Kathmandu. Non-expedition luggage can be stored safely at your hotel in Kathmandu.

  • Bring your own daypack with a waterproof cover for daily use on the trek. Keep cash, documents, camera, and a change of clothing in your daypack. Guesthouses along the route may charge a small fee for charging electronic devices — carry a power bank as backup.

  • Personal travel insurance with high-altitude rescue and medical evacuation coverage is mandatory for all participants. Your policy must specifically cover technical mountaineering at altitudes above 6,440m and must include helicopter rescue. This must be confirmed before departure for Nepal.

Equipment List

This is a 25-day expedition with two serious technical peaks, sustained time above 5,000m, and a summit at 6,440m on committing alpine terrain. Every item on this list should be tested before departure. Equipment must perform in cold, exposed conditions above 5,800m on both Kyajo Ri and Cholatse.

 

Headwear

  • Sun hat or lightweight cap

  • Warm fleece or wool hat

  • Balaclava or thin face mask

  • UV-protective sunglasses — category 4 strongly recommended

  • Ski goggles with UV protection and anti-fog system

 

Handwear

  • Thin liner gloves

  • Fleece or wool mid-layer gloves

  • Gore-Tex or waterproof insulated outer gloves

  • Down mittens — recommended for both summit pushes

 

Clothing

  • Expedition-quality down jacket with hood

  • Waterproof Gore-Tex jacket

  • Waterproof Gore-Tex over-trousers

  • Fleece jacket or softshell mid-layer

  • Fleece or insulated trousers

  • Thermal base layer — top and bottom

  • Moisture-wicking base layer tops (2–3)

  • Light hiking trousers for the trek

 

Footwear

  • High-altitude mountaineering boots — required for both peaks

  • Trekking boots for approach stages

  • Camp shoes or light slippers

  • Warm mountaineering socks (4–5 pairs)

  • Snow gaiters

 

Technical Climbing Equipment

  • UIAA-approved climbing helmet

  • Sit harness

  • Ascender (jumar)

  • Descending device (ATC guide or similar)

  • Locking carabiners (4 minimum)

  • Non-locking carabiners (2)

  • Ice axe — classic alpine type

  • Crampons compatible with mountaineering boots

  • Trekking poles

 

Sleeping Equipment

  • Sleeping bag rated to -20°C

  • Sleeping mat or Thermarest

  • Sleeping bag liner — recommended

 

Trekking & Camp Essentials

  • 45-litre rucksack with rain cover

  • Large duffel bag with padlock

  • Headlamp with spare batteries

  • 1-litre water bottles (x2) and 1-litre thermos

  • Personal first aid kit

  • Personal snacks and energy bars

 

Hygiene & Sun Protection

  • Waterproof wash bag and medium towel

  • Toiletries — soap, toothbrush, toothpaste

  • Sunscreen SPF 50+ and lip balm with UV protection

  • Hand sanitizer, wet wipes, and toilet paper

Upcoming Departure Dates

Background
May 17 - 5 July, 2026
Available
June 12 - 2 August, 2026
Available
Includes background

Includes & Excludes

Included
  • Kyajo Ri climbing royalty and expedition permit fees
  • Cholatse climbing royalty and expedition permit fees
  • Sagarmatha National Park entry permit
  • Pasang Lhamu Municipality entry fees
  • Garbage disposal and environmental management fees
  • All government taxes, VAT, and official tourism service charges
  • IFMGA-certified lead mountain guide — full wages and comprehensive insurance
  • Experienced Climbing Sherpa support — wages, summit bonuses for both peaks, equipment, and full insurance
  • Porters to carry trekking and expedition gear at a 1:1 member-to-porter ratio
  • All staff accommodation, wages, equipment, insurance, and medical provisions
  • 4-star hotel accommodation in Kathmandu with daily breakfast (3 nights)
  • Full-board lodge accommodation during all trekking phases
  • Single tent per member at Kyajo Ri Base Camp and Cholatse Base Camp
  • Dining tent and toilet tent at both base camps
  • High camp tents at all overnight camping stages above both base camps
  • Domestic flights: Kathmandu to Lukla and return (both ways)
  • Private vehicle airport transfers in Kathmandu — pick-up and drop-off
  • Welcome dinner on Day 01 in Kathmandu
  • Farewell dinner on the final evening in Kathmandu
  • Daily breakfast at 4-star hotel in Kathmandu
  • Full-board meals during all trekking and lodge phases
  • High-altitude food and snacks for members and guides at all high camps on both peaks
  • Medical kit carried throughout the expedition
  • Satellite phone for emergency communication
  • Walkie-talkie radios for team coordination on both peaks
  • Alpinist Climber Expeditions branded duffel bag, cap, and T-shirt per member
x Not Included
  • × International airfare (to and from Kathmandu)
  • × Nepal entry visa fees
  • × Lunches and dinners in Kathmandu — meals outside of included welcome and farewell dinners and daily breakfasts
  • × Alcoholic and soft beverages
  • × Internet and WiFi access
  • × Personal clothing and climbing equipment
  • × Personal first aid kit
  • × Special drone permit fees
  • × Personal travel, medical, and emergency rescue insurance
  • × Gratuities for guides, Climbing Sherpa, and porters

1:1 Experience with Your Lead Guide

Lead Guide

Prakash Sherpa

CEO

Our lead guide Prakash Sherpa oversees expedition strategy, pacing, and on-mountain decision-making so your climb is supported from preparation through summit push.

You get direct access to experienced guidance, real-time judgement in changing conditions, and a more focused expedition experience built around safety, clarity, and strong leadership.

IFMGA

Package Options

Normal Package

The Full Experience

USD 2,750
per person / twin sharing
  • 20-day guided expedition
  • All meals during trek
  • IFMGA-certified lead guide
  • 1 assistant guide
  • Teahouse/lodge accommodation
  • All permits and park fees
  • 2 porters per client
  • Group first aid kit
  • Emergency oxygen supply
  • Kathmandu airport transfers
  • All trekking route transport
  • Welcome & farewell dinners
  • Summit certificate
  • ACE expedition duffel bag
Book Standard
Premium Package

The Full Experience

USD 2,750
per person / twin sharing
  • 20-day guided expedition
  • All meals during trek
  • IFMGA-certified lead guide
  • 1 assistant guide
  • Teahouse/lodge accommodation
  • All permits and park fees
  • 2 porters per client
  • Group first aid kit
  • Emergency oxygen supply
  • Kathmandu airport transfers
  • All trekking route transport
  • Welcome & farewell dinners
  • Summit certificate
  • ACE expedition duffel bag
Book Premium

FAQs

The order reflects the technical progression built into the expedition's design. Kyajo Ri (6,186m) is a demanding 6,000m peak in its own right, but its route — while serious — is less committing than Cholatse's upper terrain. Climbing Kyajo Ri first gives the team a controlled environment to consolidate technical skills, build high-altitude rhythm, and gain specific altitude conditioning above 6,000m before facing Cholatse's steeper ice and more sustained difficulty. Starting with Cholatse would remove that preparation advantage entirely. The progression is deliberate — Kyajo Ri is not a warm-up, but it is the right first step.

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High Altitude Kit List: What our IFMGA Guides Actually Carry
Expedition Report

High Altitude Kit List: What our IFMGA Guides Actually Carry

Climbing at high altitude demands more than strength and determination — it requires the right equipment, careful preparation, and the ability to respond to changing mountain conditions. Our IFMGA-certified mountain guides carry specialized gear not only for their own safety but for the well-being of the entire team. Their packs are carefully organized with technical climbing equipment such as harnesses, helmets, crampons, ice axes, carabiners, ascenders, descenders, and safety slings, allowing them to manage steep snow, ice, and glacier terrain. Depending on the route, they may also carry snow pickets, ice screws, and extra rope for protection and rescue situations. Safety Safety is always the top priority, so guides include a comprehensive high-altitude first aid kit, emergency bivy sack, crevasse rescue gear, and reliable communication devices such as satellite phones or radios. Navigation tools like GPS units and altimeter watches help maintain route accuracy, especially in poor visibility. Proper clothing is equally critical in extreme environments, and guides rely on a layering system that includes moisture-wicking base layers, insulating mid-layers, expedition-weight down jackets, and waterproof outer shells. They also carry multiple gloves, glacier sunglasses, goggles, and face protection to guard against wind, cold, and intense UV exposure. Navigation & Planning Tools Even on established routes, visibility can drop suddenly due to storms or whiteouts. Guides carry: Detailed route knowledge and maps GPS waypoints Weather updates via communication devices Climbing plan with turnaround times Decision-making tools are just as important as physical gear. At high altitude, the smallest item can make a life-saving difference. Our IFMGA guides pack with purpose, balancing weight with safety and efficiency. Their experience ensures that nothing essential is left behind — because in the mountains, preparation is everything.

Sep 15, 2025 Read Article →
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