LHOTSE EXPEDITION

A comprehensive briefing covers the full route — the Khumbu trek, the Icefall, the Lhotse Face, and the specific demands of the Couloir above Camp 3. Safety protocols, oxygen system management, acclimatization plan, and permit formalities are all covered. Equipment is checked and confirmed. You receive your Alpinist Climber Expeditions duffel bag, cap, and T-shirt. The afternoon is a guided tour of Kathmandu's UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

An early mountain flight from Kathmandu to Lukla (2,840m) in approximately 35 minutes. The team assembles, loads are organized, and the trek begins along the Dudh Koshi River through pine forest to Phakding. The first day on the trail — familiar ground for many, and one of the finest valley treks in Nepal regardless.

The trail crosses the Sagarmatha National Park checkpoint at Monjo and climbs steeply to Namche Bazaar at 3,440m. The altitude gain is significant and the final two hours to Namche are demanding. The first views of Everest — and of Lhotse's south face rising immediately right of Everest's Southwest Face — appear above the ridge on the final approach. Lhotse's scale from this angle is striking.

A structured acclimatization day. A morning hike to the Everest View Hotel ridge at 3,800m follows the principle of climbing high and sleeping low. From this ridge, Lhotse's south face is fully visible — a massive wall of rock and ice that rises unbroken from the Khumbu Glacier to the summit at 8,516m. The objective for the next month is directly in view. The afternoon is free in Namche.

The trail descends through rhododendron forest before climbing to Tengboche and its famous monastery. Ama Dablam and Lhotse dominate the view from the monastery ridge. The monastery is one of the most significant Buddhist sites in the Khumbu and worth time before continuing to the overnight lodge.

The route passes through Pangboche before climbing to Pheriche at 4,371m. The upper Khumbu opens up here and the altitude is felt clearly. Lhotse's south wall is now very close — the mountain fills the upper valley ahead with a presence that sharpens focus on the weeks to come. Proper hydration and a steady pace are the priorities.

A mandatory acclimatization hike to the top of Nangkartshang at 5,083m above Pheriche. The two to three hour climb delivers the team's first sustained effort above 5,000m and a panoramic view of the Khumbu, Makalu, and the full south wall of Lhotse at close range. The descent returns to Pheriche for the night. This hike is one of the most important altitude adaptation steps in the approach.

The trail climbs through Dughla past the memorial chortens at Thokla — a sobering and meaningful pause that marks the passing of many climbers and Sherpas who have been on these mountains. Above Thokla, the terrain opens onto the high plateau below Lobuche. Lhotse's northwest face is now visible above the Khumbu Glacier, and the Icefall — the first obstacle of the climb — can be seen at the foot of the mountain.

A shorter but demanding walk to Gorak Shep at 5,160m — the last lodge stop before Base Camp. The trail crosses the lateral moraine of the Khumbu Glacier and the effects of altitude are pronounced. Kala Patthar rises above the village. Base Camp is less than two hours ahead. The team rests early in preparation for the arrival at Base Camp the following morning.

The final approach to Base Camp crosses glacial moraine on the Khumbu Glacier — rocky, undulating terrain with ice visible on both sides. The Khumbu Icefall rises directly above as Base Camp comes into view. Our Base Camp is equipped with private dome tents per member, hot showers on request, and a well-equipped dining area. The Lhotse Face rises in full scale to the east of the Icefall. The route above is visible from the tent door.

The Puja ceremony is conducted at Base Camp — a traditional Sherpa blessing led by a lama, attended by every member of the team and all support staff. All climbing equipment is blessed before use on the mountain. At a Base Camp shared with Everest teams, the Lhotse expedition's Puja carries its own distinct focus — the Couloir above is a different objective, and the ceremony reflects that. The day is otherwise dedicated to rest and equipment organization.

This 17-day window is managed entirely in the field by the expedition leader. The daily sequence is determined by weather, route conditions on the Lhotse Face and in the Couloir, and team readiness — it cannot be pre-scripted.

The typical structure: technical training at Base Camp covering Icefall navigation, Couloir-specific ice technique, and oxygen system use → first rotation to Camp 1 (6,065m) at the top of the Icefall and return to Base Camp → second rotation to Camp 2 (6,400m) in the Western Cwm and return → rest at Base Camp and lower villages for recovery → third rotation reaching Camp 3 (7,200m) on the Lhotse Face → recovery at Base Camp → summit push: Camp 1 → Camp 2 → Camp 3 → Camp 4 (7,800m) at the base of the Couloir → summit day through the Lhotse Couloir to 8,516m → descent to Camp 2 and Base Camp.

Summit day from Camp 4 begins in the early hours — typically 10 PM to 1 AM. The Couloir is approached in darkness, with the team moving on fixed rope through increasingly steep and hard ice as altitude is gained. The summit of Lhotse at 8,516m is a narrow, exposed point on the ridge. The descent back through the Couloir requires the same technical attention as the ascent. Unlimited supplemental oxygen is in use above Camp 2 for all members and guides throughout this window.

Base Camp is cleaned and broken down. All tents are struck, equipment packed, and the site left clean per Sagarmatha National Park standards. The team descends to Lobuche — the first lodge night since arriving at Base Camp 19 days earlier. The altitude drop from 5,364m to 4,940m provides immediate physical relief.

The return trek moves south through the upper Khumbu. The descent through Dughla and past Thokla toward Pangboche is a well-worn trail seen from the other side of the summit. Lhotse's south wall recedes behind as the valley widens below. Pangboche's ancient monastery is a fitting final cultural pause before the lower valley.

The route continues through Tengboche and back to Namche. The descent through rhododendron forest is pleasant and the lower altitude immediately noticeable. Namche is a comfortable night before the last trekking day to Lukla.

The final trekking day follows the Dudh Koshi downstream through Phakding to Lukla. A well-known trail, walked now with the weight of the expedition behind it. Porters are thanked and farewelled. The last night on the trail.

An early flight from Lukla returns the team to Kathmandu. The afternoon is free. A farewell dinner in the evening is the formal celebration of one of the most serious and technically demanding expeditions in Nepal — the fourth highest mountain on Earth, the Lhotse Couloir, and everything it took to reach it.

Private airport transfer for your outbound flight. The Lhotse Expedition concludes — 35 days from Kathmandu to the world's fourth highest summit and back.