LOBUCHE EAST & ISLAND PEAK COMBO EXPEDITION
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LOBUCHE EAST & ISLAND PEAK COMBO EXPEDITION

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Duration
21 Days
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Max Altitude
6,119m · 6,160m
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Group Size
Max 1 - 6

Trip Description

Island Peak — 6,160m

Island Peak — known by its Nepali name Imja Tse — rises to 6,160 metres at the head of the Chhukung Valley, flanked by the towering walls of Lhotse, Lhotse Shar, and Ama Dablam. Its name traces back to the early Everest expeditions of the 1950s, when the peak appeared as an island of rock and snow above the surrounding glaciers when viewed from Dingboche. It was first climbed in 1953 by a British team as a training peak for Everest — a role that describes its function in this expedition precisely.

 

The standard route ascends from Base Camp at 5,100m through a glaciated approach to the base of a steep headwall — the defining feature of the climb. Fixed ropes protect the 45–50 degree snow and ice headwall, and crampon and jumar technique are essential from this point to the final snow ridge and the summit at 6,160m. Under IFMGA guide supervision, every step of this route is also a teaching environment. The headwall is where the guide builds each member's technical confidence — the skill that Lobuche East will rely on.

 

Lobuche East — 6,119m

Lobuche East stands at 6,119 metres above the Khumbu Glacier — a peak with a more varied and technically interesting route than its height relative to Island Peak might suggest. The approach from Lobuche village crosses lateral moraine before reaching Base Camp at 4,900m, and the route above gains a high camp at 5,270m before the summit ridge. The terrain mixes snow, rock, and some mixed ground on the upper sections — a different technical character to Island Peak's predominantly snow and ice headwall, and a valuable complement to it.

 

The summit of Lobuche East at 6,119m provides one of the finest viewpoints in the Khumbu: Everest's Southwest Face, Nuptse's North Face, Lhotse, Makalu, Ama Dablam, and Cho Oyu all visible from a position that very few non-technical trekkers ever reach. It is a summit that rewards the two weeks of effort invested to reach it.

Trip Overview

Duration
Duration
21 Days
Including travel days
Max altitude
Max Altitude
6,119m · 6,160m
Summit of LOBUCHE EAST & ISLAND PEAK COMBO EXPEDITION
Difficulty
Best Season
Spring & Autumn
Ideal climbing window
Group size
Group Size
Max 1 - 6
Small team support
Region
Region
Khumbu Region
Expedition location
Overview
Overview
Expedition
High-altitude guided climb
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Phone
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Trip overview background

Detailed Itinerary

A representative from Alpinist Climber Expeditions meets you at Tribhuvan International Airport and transfers you to your 4-star hotel. The evening opens with a welcome dinner — an introduction to your guide, fellow team members, and the 21-day journey ahead.

Hotel

A full briefing covers both peaks — Island Peak and Lobuche East — including the route, camp structure, technical requirements, acclimatization plan, and safety protocols. Equipment is checked and confirmed. You receive your Alpinist Climber Expeditions duffel bag, cap, and T-shirt. The afternoon is spent visiting Kathmandu's UNESCO World Heritage Sites — Boudhanath, Pashupatinath, and the medieval durbar squares — before the flight to Lukla the following morning.

Hotel

An early mountain flight from Kathmandu to Lukla (2,840m) in approximately 35 minutes. In Lukla, the team assembles and loads are organized before the trek begins. The trail descends along the Dudh Koshi River through pine forest to Phakding — a comfortable and scenic first trekking day along one of the world's most famous approach routes.

Lodge

The trail crosses the Sagarmatha National Park entry checkpoint at Monjo and climbs steeply from the river confluence to Namche Bazaar at 3,440m. The ascent gains roughly 600 metres from the valley below and is the most physically demanding trekking day of the approach — but the first clear views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, and Ama Dablam that appear above the ridge on the final approach to Namche make it one of the most rewarding.

Lodge

A structured acclimatization day. A morning hike to the Everest View Hotel ridge at approximately 3,800m gives the team its first purposeful altitude exposure — climbing high and returning to sleep lower, the fundamental principle of Himalayan acclimatization. Khumjung village, the Sherpa school funded by Sir Edmund Hillary, and the ancient monastery with its famous yeti skull are all within walking distance of the viewpoint. The afternoon is free in Namche — one of the most well-equipped and characterful villages on any mountain approach in the world.

Lodge

The trail descends from Namche through rhododendron forest before climbing to the Tengboche ridge and its famous monastery — the most well-known Buddhist site in the Khumbu. Ama Dablam rises directly above Tengboche in a view that justifies the climb from the valley alone. Island Peak's position in the upper Chhukung Valley is now closer, and the mountain begins to take on a real presence in the expedition's landscape.

Lodge

The trail crosses the Imja Khola and climbs to Dingboche at 4,410m — an open, broad village at a meaningful altitude where Lhotse's south face dominates the upper horizon and Island Peak's summit ridge is visible in the upper Chhukung Valley to the east. The altitude makes itself felt here for the first time, and the pace is kept deliberately steady. Proper hydration begins to matter more at this elevation.

Lodge

A short but significant walk from Dingboche to Chhukung — the last permanent settlement in the upper Imja Valley and the staging point for Island Peak. The surrounding landscape is raw glacial terrain: moraine ridges, glacial lakes, and the ice-draped walls of Lhotse rising directly above. Island Peak's summit ridge is clearly visible from the village at close range. The altitude at 4,750m is noticeable and the body's adaptation continues.

Lodge

A serious acclimatization hike to Chhukung Ri at 5,546m — a rocky ridge above Chhukung with one of the most panoramic views in the eastern Khumbu. The ascent takes three to four hours and provides the first genuine measure of what sustained effort above 5,000m feels like in these conditions. From the summit, Makalu, Baruntse, Ama Dablam, Lhotse, Everest, and Island Peak are all simultaneously visible — the team's first view of their first summit objective from above 5,500m. The descent returns to Chhukung for the final lodge night before Base Camp.

Lodge

From Chhukung, the trail climbs onto the moraine above the Imja Glacier to Island Peak Base Camp at 5,100m. The approach is a mix of rocky trail and glacial terrain, with the island-like form of the peak rising more dramatically with every hundred metres gained. Tents are established at Base Camp, the team eats well and rests early — summit day begins before dawn.

Camp

The summit day begins in the early hours by headlamp. The route climbs from Base Camp through the glacier basin to the base of the headwall — a sustained 45–50 degree snow and ice slope protected by fixed ropes. Crampons and jumar are in use from the bottom of the headwall, and the IFMGA guide works directly with every team member on technique throughout this section. The final snow ridge to the summit at 6,160m is exposed and views of Lhotse, Makalu, Baruntse, and the Chhukung Valley spread far below.

This is the first technical alpine summit for many members of this expedition — and a genuine one. After the celebration, the team descends carefully back to Base Camp and continues down to Chhukung for the night. The Kongma La crossing and Lobuche East await the following day.

Lodge

The Kongma La crossing is one of the most dramatic high passes in the Khumbu — a 5,540m col that connects the Chhukung Valley to the Lobuche side of the glacier system. The approach from Chhukung climbs steeply to the pass on rocky, sometimes icy terrain. Crampons may be needed on the upper section depending on conditions. From the Kongma La, a broad view opens across the Western Cwm and the Khumbu Glacier — Everest, Nuptse, and Lhotse filling the upper skyline. The descent to Lobuche is long but the altitude gain of the crossing provides additional acclimatization benefit before Lobuche East.

Lodge

A full rest day in Lobuche between the two summits. The body recovers from Island Peak and the Kongma La crossing. The team eats well, rests, and prepares for the move to Lobuche East High Camp the following morning. The guide reviews weather forecasts and confirms the plan. Lobuche village sits at the foot of Lobuche East's approach — the route is visible directly above.

Lodge

From Lobuche village, the route climbs through moraine and rocky terrain before transitioning to snow and the lower sections of the Lobuche East ridge. High Camp at 5,270m sits above the main glacier on the approach to the summit ridge — a well-positioned camp with the upper mountain clearly visible above. Tents are established, a hot meal prepared, and the team rests in preparation for an early summit departure.

Camp

The summit day on Lobuche East begins before dawn. The route from High Camp climbs to the summit ridge through mixed terrain — snow, some rock, and the technical sections that distinguish Lobuche East from a pure snow climb. The skills built on Island Peak's headwall are directly applied here: crampon technique on varied terrain, confident movement with the rope, and sustained effort at altitude. The summit at 6,119m delivers an extraordinary view — Everest's Southwest Face rises to the north, Nuptse's North Face is almost within reach, Lhotse, Makalu, Ama Dablam, and Cho Oyu extend across the horizon.

Two summits. Two 6,000m peaks. The team descends carefully to Lobuche village — a 1:1 Climbing Sherpa alongside every member throughout — and the return trek to Kathmandu begins the following morning.

Camp

The descent from Lobuche drops through the familiar terrain of the upper Khumbu corridor — past the memorial chortens at Thokla, through Dughla, and along the Imja Khola valley to Pangboche. The altitude drop from 4,900m to 3,985m is felt immediately and genuinely. Pangboche's ancient monastery provides a meaningful cultural pause before the lower valley.

Lodge

The trail returns through the now-familiar route to Namche — past Tengboche and down through rhododendron forest. The valley looks different from this side of the summits. Two 6,000m peaks completed, and the scale of what has been achieved over the previous two weeks becomes clearer with every step back toward lower ground.

Lodge

The final trekking day follows the Dudh Koshi River downstream from Namche through Phakding and the lower Khumbu forest to Lukla. The trail is familiar and the pace comfortable. Porters are thanked and bid farewell in Lukla before the last night on the trail.

Lodge

An early morning flight from Lukla returns the team to Kathmandu. The afternoon is free for rest, a walk through Thamel, or final souvenir shopping. A farewell dinner in the evening celebrates two summits, 21 days in the Khumbu, and a genuine introduction to technical Himalayan mountaineering.

Hotel

A free day in Kathmandu for recovery, cultural exploration, or personal time. This buffer day provides comfortable flexibility for international connections and any final arrangements before departure.

Hotel

Private airport transfer is arranged for your outbound flight. The Lobuche East and Island Peak Combo Expedition concludes — 21 days, two 6,000m summits, and the beginning of a serious mountaineering progression in the Khumbu.

Why ACE?

Alpinist Climber Expeditions was built around a principle that has guided every climb we have organized — that the quality of the experience on a mountain is directly tied to the quality and depth of experience of the people leading it. What sets Alpinist Climber Expeditions apart is something that cannot be manufactured or replicated — it comes from decades spent on these mountains, from the culture that formed us, and from a deeply held belief that every climb deserves to be done properly.

 

We are a team of professional Sherpas. Not guides who have visited the Himalaya — guides who grew up here, who know these peaks in every season, and who have spent careers developing the technical skills and mountain judgment required to lead expeditions safely and successfully.

 

Our team holds IFMGA / UIAGM certification — the highest international standard in professional mountain guiding — alongside Advanced Mountaineering, Wilderness First Aid, Helicopter Rescue, and High-Altitude Rescue qualifications. Our lead guide has summited multiple 8,000-metre peaks, including ascents without supplemental oxygen. This is not a credential on paper. It is a lived capability that directly protects every climber who climbs with us.

 

We offer two expedition structures: a standard option with small-group expedition, and a premium option with 1:1 guide-to-client ratio. Both are built on the same standard of safety, preparation, and professionalism.The standard option maintains a minimum 1:3 guide-to-client ratio with a dedicated IFMGA lead guide and Sherpa support on every climb. Our premium 1:1 private option places you on the mountain directly alongside IFMGA Guide Mr. Prakash Sherpa.

 

We do not run high-volume operations as our clients are not bookings. They are climbers who have chosen to trust us with something significant and we take that trust seriously on every single expedition. We do not cut corners on acclimatization, staffing ratios, or safety equipment. We organize expeditions the way they should be organized — with patience, precision, and the kind of local knowledge that only comes from growing up in these mountains and spending a career on them.

 



The Team

Expedition Guides

Every guide on our team has been selected for their technical ability, high-altitude experience, and personal commitment to the safety and success of every climber they lead. All guides carry extensive experience at altitude and hold a proven record of safety, summit success, and strong compatibility with international clients.

The number of guides assigned to each expedition is determined by the size of the climbing team. Our standard guide-to-member ratio is 1:3, ensuring that every climber receives consistent, attentive support throughout the approach, the acclimatization phase, and the technical climb itself.

 

Climbing Sherpa Support

A dedicated team of experienced Climbing Sherpas supports every expedition with load carrying on the mountain, route preparation, and high camp management. On summit day, we maintain a 1:1 Sherpa-to-climber ratio — a commitment that reflects our belief that the summit push is where support matters most.

Our Climbing Sherpas are not simply load carriers. They are experienced high-altitude professionals who understand the mountain, the route, and the demands of summit day. Their presence alongside every climber on the final push is a core part of how we manage safety and success on the upper mountain.

 

What to Expect from Our Team

  • Technically qualified, IFMGA-certified lead guidance on every expedition
  • A standard guide-to-member ratio of 1:3 — adjusted based on team size and peak requirements
  • 1:1 Climbing Sherpa support on summit day for every team member
  • Guides who are experienced, companionable, and genuinely invested in your success
  • Full medical kit, satellite communication, and emergency response capability carried by the team at all times
  • A premium 1:1 private option available — summit alongside Mr. Prakash Sherpa directly

 

 

Trip Notes

  • The best seasons are spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November). Spring offers stable weather windows, reliable conditions on both peaks, and the full rhododendron bloom on the lower trail approach. Autumn delivers excellent post-monsoon clarity and firm snow on both summit routes. Both seasons are well-suited to this expedition.

  • The expedition runs for 21 days from arrival in Kathmandu to final departure, covering the full Khumbu approach, both summit climbs, the Kongma La crossing, and the return to Kathmandu.

  • Accommodation during trekking is in lodges on full board throughout. At Island Peak Base Camp, each member has a single private tent with a shared dining tent and toilet tent. At Lobuche East, a high camp tent is used for the single overnight above Base Camp.

  • Group size is a minimum of 1 member with 1 IFMGA Mountain Guide, and a maximum of 6 members with 2 IFMGA Mountain Guides. The number of guides is always determined by the size of the team.

  • This expedition is designed for beginners to mountaineering and experienced trekkers making the transition into technical climbing. No prior technical climbing experience is required — the IFMGA guide provides instruction throughout. Strong physical fitness and prior trekking experience above 4,000m is strongly recommended.

  • This combo serves as an excellent foundation and stepping stone toward more technically demanding peaks — Kyajo Ri, Cholatse, and Ama Dablam represent natural progressions for those who complete this programme successfully.

  • A free duffel bag, baseball cap, and T-shirt are provided to every member at the expedition team meeting in Kathmandu. The duffel bag carries expedition supplies transported by porters throughout. Non-expedition luggage can be stored safely at your hotel in Kathmandu.

  • Bring your own daypack with a waterproof cover for daily use on the trek. Keep cash, documents, camera, and a change of clothing accessible in your daypack. Guesthouses along the trekking route may charge a small fee for charging electronic devices — carry a power bank as backup.

  • Personal travel insurance with high-altitude rescue and medical evacuation coverage is mandatory for all participants. Your policy must cover mountaineering at altitudes above 6,160m and must include helicopter rescue. This must be confirmed before your departure for Nepal.

Equipment List

This expedition involves 21 days across the full range of Khumbu terrain — from lodge trekking at 3,000m to 6,160m summit ridges. All equipment should be tested before departure. Mountaineering boots in particular must be properly broken in and confirmed to be compatible with your crampons before leaving home.

 

Headwear

  • Sun hat or lightweight cap

  • Warm fleece or wool hat

  • Balaclava or thin face mask

  • UV-protective sunglasses — category 4 recommended

  • Ski goggles with UV protection and anti-fog system

 

Handwear

  • Thin liner gloves

  • Fleece or wool mid-layer gloves

  • Gore-Tex or waterproof insulated outer gloves

  • Down mittens — recommended for both summit pushes

 

Clothing

  • Expedition-quality down jacket with hood

  • Waterproof Gore-Tex jacket

  • Waterproof Gore-Tex over-trousers

  • Fleece jacket or softshell mid-layer

  • Fleece or insulated trousers

  • Thermal base layer — top and bottom

  • Moisture-wicking base layer tops (2–3)

  • Light hiking trousers for the trek

 

Footwear

  • High-altitude mountaineering boots — required for both peaks

  • Trekking boots for approach and lodge stages

  • Camp shoes or light slippers

  • Warm mountaineering socks (4–5 pairs)

  • Snow gaiters

 

Technical Climbing Equipment

  • UIAA-approved climbing helmet

  • Sit harness

  • Ascender (jumar) — essential for the Island Peak headwall

  • Descending device (ATC guide or similar)

  • Locking carabiners (4 minimum)

  • Non-locking carabiners (2)

  • Ice axe — classic alpine type

  • Crampons compatible with mountaineering boots

  • Trekking poles

 

Sleeping Equipment

  • Sleeping bag rated to -20°C

  • Sleeping mat or Thermarest

  • Sleeping bag liner — recommended

 

Trekking & Camp Essentials

  • 45-litre rucksack with rain cover

  • Large duffel bag with padlock

  • Headlamp with spare batteries

  • 1-litre water bottles (x2) and 1-litre thermos

  • Personal first aid kit

  • Personal snacks and energy bars

 

Hygiene & Sun Protection

  • Waterproof wash bag and medium towel

  • Toiletries — soap, toothbrush, toothpaste

  • Sunscreen SPF 50+ and lip balm with UV protection

  • Hand sanitizer, wet wipes, and toilet paper

Includes background

Includes & Excludes

Included
  • Lobuche East climbing royalty and expedition permit fees
  • Island Peak climbing royalty and expedition permit fees
  • Sagarmatha National Park entry permit
  • TIMS (Trekkers' Information Management System) card
  • Garbage disposal and environmental management fees
  • All government taxes, VAT, and official tourism service charges
  • IFMGA-certified lead mountain guide — full wages and comprehensive insurance
  • Experienced Climbing Sherpa support — wages, summit bonuses for both peaks, equipment, and full insurance
  • Porters to carry trekking and expedition gear at a 1:1 member-to-porter ratio
  • All staff accommodation, wages, equipment, insurance, and medical provisions
  • 4-star hotel accommodation in Kathmandu with daily breakfast (3 nights)
  • Full-board lodge accommodation during all trekking phases
  • Single tent per member at Island Peak Base Camp and Lobuche East High Camp
  • Dining tent and toilet tent at Island Peak Base Camp
  • High camp tent at Lobuche East High Camp
  • Domestic flights: Kathmandu to Lukla and return (both ways)
  • Private vehicle airport transfers in Kathmandu — pick-up and drop-off
  • Welcome dinner on Day 01 in Kathmandu
  • Farewell dinner on the last evening in Kathmandu
  • Daily breakfast at 4-star hotel in Kathmandu
  • Full-board meals during all trekking and lodge phases
  • High-altitude food and snacks for members and guides at all high camps on both peaks
  • Medical kit carried throughout the expedition
  • Satellite phone for emergency communication
  • Alpinist Climber Expeditions branded duffel bag, cap, and T-shirt per member
x Not Included
  • × International airfare (to and from Kathmandu)
  • × Nepal entry visa fees
  • × Lunches and dinners in Kathmandu — meals outside of included welcome and farewell dinners and daily breakfasts
  • × Alcoholic and soft beverages
  • × Internet and WiFi access
  • × Personal clothing and climbing equipment
  • × Personal first aid kit
  • × Special drone permit fees
  • × Personal travel, medical, and emergency rescue insurance
  • × Gratuities for guides, Climbing Sherpa, and porters

1:1 Experience with Your Lead Guide

Lead Guide

Prakash Sherpa

CEO

Our lead guide Prakash Sherpa oversees expedition strategy, pacing, and on-mountain decision-making so your climb is supported from preparation through summit push.

You get direct access to experienced guidance, real-time judgement in changing conditions, and a more focused expedition experience built around safety, clarity, and strong leadership.

IFMGA

Package Options

Normal Package

The Full Experience

USD 2,750
per person / twin sharing
  • 20-day guided expedition
  • All meals during trek
  • IFMGA-certified lead guide
  • 1 assistant guide
  • Teahouse/lodge accommodation
  • All permits and park fees
  • 2 porters per client
  • Group first aid kit
  • Emergency oxygen supply
  • Kathmandu airport transfers
  • All trekking route transport
  • Welcome & farewell dinners
  • Summit certificate
  • ACE expedition duffel bag
Book Standard
Premium Package

The Full Experience

USD 2,750
per person / twin sharing
  • 20-day guided expedition
  • All meals during trek
  • IFMGA-certified lead guide
  • 1 assistant guide
  • Teahouse/lodge accommodation
  • All permits and park fees
  • 2 porters per client
  • Group first aid kit
  • Emergency oxygen supply
  • Kathmandu airport transfers
  • All trekking route transport
  • Welcome & farewell dinners
  • Summit certificate
  • ACE expedition duffel bag
Book Premium

FAQs

Yes — with an important qualification. This expedition is designed for beginners to technical mountaineering, but you should arrive with a solid foundation of physical fitness and prior trekking experience at altitude — ideally above 4,000m. No prior crampon or rope experience is required: the IFMGA guide provides hands-on technical instruction throughout the expedition, and the programme is specifically structured to build skills progressively before each summit. What you do need is the physical conditioning and mental commitment to sustain three weeks of demanding high-altitude activity. If you have serious doubts about either, speak with us before booking — we will give you an honest assessment.

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High Altitude Kit List: What our IFMGA Guides Actually Carry
Expedition Report

High Altitude Kit List: What our IFMGA Guides Actually Carry

Climbing at high altitude demands more than strength and determination — it requires the right equipment, careful preparation, and the ability to respond to changing mountain conditions. Our IFMGA-certified mountain guides carry specialized gear not only for their own safety but for the well-being of the entire team. Their packs are carefully organized with technical climbing equipment such as harnesses, helmets, crampons, ice axes, carabiners, ascenders, descenders, and safety slings, allowing them to manage steep snow, ice, and glacier terrain. Depending on the route, they may also carry snow pickets, ice screws, and extra rope for protection and rescue situations. Safety Safety is always the top priority, so guides include a comprehensive high-altitude first aid kit, emergency bivy sack, crevasse rescue gear, and reliable communication devices such as satellite phones or radios. Navigation tools like GPS units and altimeter watches help maintain route accuracy, especially in poor visibility. Proper clothing is equally critical in extreme environments, and guides rely on a layering system that includes moisture-wicking base layers, insulating mid-layers, expedition-weight down jackets, and waterproof outer shells. They also carry multiple gloves, glacier sunglasses, goggles, and face protection to guard against wind, cold, and intense UV exposure. Navigation & Planning Tools Even on established routes, visibility can drop suddenly due to storms or whiteouts. Guides carry: Detailed route knowledge and maps GPS waypoints Weather updates via communication devices Climbing plan with turnaround times Decision-making tools are just as important as physical gear. At high altitude, the smallest item can make a life-saving difference. Our IFMGA guides pack with purpose, balancing weight with safety and efficiency. Their experience ensures that nothing essential is left behind — because in the mountains, preparation is everything.

Sep 15, 2025 Read Article →
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